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After ambling past Chinatown shop windows displaying glistening ducks and flopping fish, vegetarians will be relieved to step into this meat-free haven--even if the dark-green carpeting and pale-green walls call to mind a corporate office. The menu offers excellent and convincing mock-meat dishes, including delicate "shrimp" dumplings (made with rice flour, yams and tofu), crispy, slightly sweet sesame "chicken" (deep-fried bean curd skin) and Peking "spareribs"--yams doused in a peppery sauce. In place of dessert, order a fresh fruit shake--kiwi is our favorite.

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