Since Allan Vernon relocated to Atlanta in the hope of restarting his jerk sauce factory there, his flagship restaurant has lost so much luster that the "new" on the sign screams irony. Most of the people entering the two-table corner store seem to be passing through to the adjoining dominoes bar, which lures the waitress from behind the counter for long periods. The jerk itself (which once graced the shelves of Zabar"s) is far from incendiary, yet is sure to incense purists with its gloppy thickness and heavy debt to Worcestershire sauce. The curried goat is dry, and Vernon"s can be out of plantains even in season. Vernon needs to hurry back to the Bronx.
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