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Chef-owner William Mattiello hails from Modena, near Bologna, the birthplace of tortellini, so his menu features the little ring-shaped pasta filled with pumpkin and served with sage-and-butter sauce, or giant-sized and stuffed with ricotta and spinach. Another regional specialty: gnocco frito, a shareable appetizer that lets diners make sandwiches from hot, airy bread pillows and a large plate of cured meats. Via Emilia"s interesting wine list has lots of lambrusco, a sweet, fizzy red that"s priced cheap and goes down easy.

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