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The waiters might occasionally stumble over a few English words, but their service is speedy and careful. That"s Vico, an endearing mix of professionalism and authenticity. The pizza bianca and the crostini in bread baskets are warm and fresh; the mild limoncello liqueur is house-made. A caponata appetizer could be a light meal: a salty salad of tuna, chopped olives, tomatoes and capers served with softened frisella crackers. The veal chop with mushrooms and peppers has the mildly meaty flavor of a low-impact steak. And the ricotta cheesecake is smooth and puddinglike.

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