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Crowds from the quasi-hidden but not-so-secret Angel"s Share bar next door squeeze in here for Japanese comfort food, served in a perpetually hopping room that"s decorated to look like an outdoor eatery: Clouds drift overhead on a blue-painted sky; red lanterns dangle from a faux roof. The cheap prices allow you and your pitcher-downing buddies to order several of the tapalike dishes. Shredded daikon is dressed with sweet-and-sour ume shiso dressing; bonito flakes dance atop a bowl of yakisoba.{/I} But the best beer-ballast value: grill-it-yourself Korean barbecue with large platters of meat.

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