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Duck decoys establish a preppy theme here, and many of the patrons seem monogrammed, but the kitchen doesn"t duck its responsibility to the masses. There"s comfort food galore, including rib-eye steak, braised lamb shank, meat loaf and calamari coated in a feather-light batter. A salad of blanched haricots verts with sweet cubes of beets and tomatoes is excellent. The dark, dense ginger cake, with a scoop of caramel ice cream, is nicely spicy. Relax in the back garden or in front of one of the three fireplaces.

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