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Good barbeque is surprisingly hard to find in New York, but Virgil’s was among the first to boldly promise the real deal. The interior is a version of classic, roadhouse Americana, and the kitchen serves ’que in the many styles of the south: Thus you get Texas-style beef brisket, Carolina pulled pork, Memphis pork ribs, and Georgia chicken-fried steak. But as any aficionado knows, the sides are just as important, and Virgil’s has a slew of them, including hush puppies, biscuits and gravy, and “Train Wreck Fries,” slathered in a mouthwatering mix guaranteed to infuriate your doctor: cheddar, bacon and ranch dressing.