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Before mustachioed hipsters even knew what Chimay was, this subdued West Village bar was pouring bold Belgian brews. Though VDN's list hasn't matured much since the bar opened in 1995, it remains one of the city's coziest, if most predictable, hops havens. Ten drafts include the malty Maredsous 8 and biting La Chouffe, and there are nearly 30 bottled beers, many of them Trappist (Westmalle, Rochefort)--a solid, enjoyable lineup. Add some first-rate pub food--moules and fries--and it's clear that even in this beer-forward climate, VDN's simple pleasures still satisfy.

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