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Sassy combos and outdoor seating keep the Bedford Ave crowds happy. The Italian roll could convert Don Corleone into a maki maven with its mix of tuna, lobster, avocado, roasted pepper, asparagus and sun-dried tomato. The Tokyo Midnight (spicy yellowtail, smoked salmon, mango and tempura flakes) packs salty, sweet and crunchy into one bite. There are different grades of the mighty horseradish--the hottest version, Grade A, has blown the Von Dutch cap off the head of many a thrill-seeking Billyburger.

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