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Obviously, Wylie Dufresne"s parents never scolded him for playing with his food. His far-fetched innovations can be found in riffs on the humble (air-puffed pizza pebbles) and the exalted (a creamy ribbon of foie gras slips down the throat with barely a twitch of the jaw). Although the 12-course tasting menu could be pared down (it"s possible to become blasé by the time the coffee-coated chicory ice cream arrives), you"ll still end the meal grateful Dufresne"s caprices were indulged.

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