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Mixology maestro Sasha Petraske has abandoned his opening concept--focusing on sipping spirits, not cocktails--but this narrow, lamp-lit spot is all the better for it. The bar now cranks out expertly rendered classics such as brawny Sazeracs and aromatic old-fashioneds anchored by hand-cracked ice. Absinthe is still the bar's centerpiece, but the liquor's snail-pace preparation (a bartender dribbles icy water over a slotted, sugar-topped spoon) slows down service. Stick with mixed drinks instead.

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