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Just north of Union Square on Park Avenue South, Wildwood Barbeque joins a number of other restaurants opened in the last few years to cater to New York’s renewed desire for all-American barbecue. A former motorcycle cop, pit master “Big Lou” Elrose presides over the sauces and spices that give the ribs, brisket, pulled pork and lamb ribs their flavor. The restaurant prides itself on its long list of bourbons and whiskeys.