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In good weather, French doors open to reveal a diverse mix of streetside diners. Waiters weave among the tables, handing off forthright fare like pulled pork sandwiches and cobb salads. Come evening, a pianist plays "80s tunes in the white-brick dining room. Entrées change seasonally, but might include sole stuffed with crabmeat and spinach or roast chicken with caramelized-onion mashed potatoes. The waitstaff doesn"t push dessert--and, at least in the case of the crusty chocolate pudding, they"re right not to.

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