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Visit South Africa via Hell's Kitchen at this urban-rustic wine bar (the name's pronounced "shai shai"). High wood-beam ceilings held aloft by thick cypress-tree logs shelter a bustling pre- and posttheater crowd. Pick from about 100 South African wines served in beakerlike carafes (we like the Tumara Malbec with notes of vanilla), and explore a menu that ranges from the familiar (oysters) to the outré (ostrich tartare).

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