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Even though it"s named for the superior brandy rating, this kitchen just happens to make an excellent XO sauce: It"s full of the traditional chewy bits of dried scallop, and the usual shrimp-and-chili paste is replaced by diced shiitake, preserved pork and pickle. Other than the XO-doused dishes, you"ll find good Hong Kong comfort food: creamy congee, succulent clams and clay-pot meat-and-noodle stews.

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