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At Yama, the crowd is young and boisterous, the portions huge and the prices low. The menu offers the standard Japanese hit parade--tempura, udon, teriyaki chicken and plenty of sushi and maki. But the staff should change the frying oil more often, shop for fish that has more luster, and perk up the generally bland dishes. Being friendly and accessible is nice, but appealing food should be part of the package, too.

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