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This Gallic eatery is more cozy and inviting than the oddball name suggests. Crêpes are the house specialty; we liked Le St. Barth, a delicate, toasted-brown pancake filled with earthy slices of portobello mushrooms, warm goat cheese and punchy truffle oil. The rest of the menu changes daily, but look out for the extravagant gratin de coquilettes{/I}--a gooey hybrid of baked mac and cheese and potatoes gratin. Desserts are hit-or-miss: A white-chocolate mousse tasted artificial, but panna cotta, made using the pastry chef"s grandmother"s recipe, was simple and satisfying.

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