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Neither entirely haute nor entirely casual, this elegant restaurant fits well on the Upper Crust Side. Tall front windows look out on the sparse traffic of York Avenue. Textured drapes and upholstered ceiling panels add to the soft and cozy feel. The menu provides comfort as well: a filet mignon napoleon with a pink-peppercorn sauce, horseradish-crusted halibut and grilled marinated skirt steak. Polish off a fudgy wedge of chef Joel Reiss"s Mississippi mud pie. Predictably, most customers live nearby (this is subway Siberia, after all); still, the good word is spreading.

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