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{I}Yum means "salad"--as in grilled shrimp tossed with red onion, cilantro, slices of tender young lemongrass, slivers of kaffir lime leaf and pungent fish sauce. The friendly staff is happy to guide you toward other tasty options, including the barbecued shrimp and satays, served with a cumin-touched peanut sauce. Steamed dumplings are the real Thai (not Chinese) deal: a crinkly light pastry stuffed with minced shrimp, pork and water chestnuts, and served with a heady dip of soy sauce, sugar and roasted garlic. If curries lack a little power, all is forgiven when the creamy coconut ice cream arrives. Yum yum indeed.

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