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Zaytoons is small, modest and far south of Smith Street"s restaurant row. But the food is excellent, distinctive, slightly offbeat--and stunningly affordable. The hummus is deliciously nutty tasting; the fava-bean ful is steeped in a marvelous dressing; and the pita is thin, soft and unusually tasty. The restaurant"s specialty "pitzas" go from traditional pizzas (heavy on the rich tomato sauce) to more Middle Eastern varieties (with spicy lamb toppings). Our only complaint is that the baklava was swimming in sugar syrup, but that"s the way grandpa liked it

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