At this shoebox-size Kosher eatery that was once Shalom Restaurant, a red neon sign declares hot samsa. Consider this a command to order one. The dish is a benchmark of Bukharan cuisine--Central Asian Jewish food heavy on hearty meats--and it"s a stomach stuffer: a flaky, baseball-shaped pastry crammed with sautéed onions and minced lamb. Equally irresistible is the mashed-potato--filled chebureki. It"s like a fried pierogi, and costs just $1.50. For another few bucks you can add skirt-steak kebab or lulya, a cylinder of ground lamb dressed with raw onions. Bad breath never tasted so good.
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