Like little else in Soho, this eatery has been in the same location since 1992. That staying power comes from a seriousness about wine, a stellar staff and an unpretentious vibe. Diners can observe the chefs in the open kitchen or stay up front, have a drink and watch shoppers come and go. Locals love the scallop-and-pumpkin chowder, the layered spinach salad with cheese and lemon-pistachio dressing, and the seared scallops on cauliflower risotto.
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