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If you stand on the doorstep of Zucchero e Pomodori and look out, you can see at least three other Italian restaurants. So why do Upper East Siders keep filling this place? Mainly because it"s what we all ask for in an Italian joint: reliable, nonfussy and relatively inexpensive food. The dozen or so fresh pastas are always a good choice, like ribbony pappardelle in a thick meat sauce, but the Sicilian owners always offer a few dishes from their native region on top of the usual, including rigatoni alla Siciliana,{/I} pasta tossed with eggplant, tomatoes, basil and tangy ricotta salata cheese.

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