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For access to this ersatz speakeasy, look for a sign that reads THE LOWER EAST SIDE TOY COMPANY. Pass through the gate, walk down an alleyway and up a set of stairs to find a dimly lit den fitted with a gleaming bar. Cocktails are poured into teacups, and bottled beer is brown-bagged before being served. A trick bookcase leads to the real “back room,” a VIP-only lounge.
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