A.O.C. is an old-school Gallic bistro with a cheeky disposition, its initials short for L’Aile ou la cuisse (The Wing or Thigh), a 1976 French comedy film pitting high-minded cuisine against machine-made junk food. The traditional fare at this West Village retreat is decidedly of the former persuasion—the kitchen faithfully executes omelets, croque monsieur, salade Niçoise and duck confit with orange-cognac sauce. Check the weather before you go—the most pleasant place to take a repast at A.O.C. is its enclosed, trellised courtyard. Tall trees overhead drop the occasional leaf on wood tables, small birds hop around seeking crumbs, and time stands still for a moment if you let it. Weekdays from 2 to 6pm oysters are $1 each, and house wines and beers are $5.