Barano

Barano is a handsome, clubby Italian restaurant helmed by Albert Di Meglio, who named it for his grandmother’s birthplace on the tiny island of Ischia, near Naples. She instilled in him a passion for the art of cooking, a heritage that he expresses in his hickory-smoked mozzarella, linguine with clams and lemon bread crumbs, and fire-roasted lamb leg with pine nuts and raisin panzanella. Di Meglio, formerly of Little Italy’s Rubirosa, is supported by a personable staff skilled in helping to navigate the mostly Italian wine list. Book ahead at this essential Williamsburg destination or arrive spontaneously and dine at the bar.