This modern seafood restaurant has elevated Staten Island’s dining scene. Coveted window tables afford views of the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge and the shores of Brooklyn and Lower Manhattan. Restaurateur Victor Rallo partnered with “fish whisperer” Dave Pasternack, who put Katie O’Donnell (formerly of Pasternack’s Esca) in charge of the kitchen. An Italian bent surfaces in menu items such as superfresh crudo, grilled octopus, branzino drizzled with Sicilian olive oil and linguine with clams and pancetta. Italy is also showcased in a glowing, floor-to-ceiling wall of wine.