Founded in a basement stall at the Golden Mall in Flushing, Xi'an Famous Foods has grown from a hole-in-the-wall to a cool, contemporary eatery, Biáng!, named for the thwacking sound made as noodles are stretched and slammed into shape. Said noodles come in many varieties, dressed with tingly beef stew, spicy-and-sour diced pork belly or lamb shot through with cumin. Anthony Bourdain helped put the chainlet on the map, raving on No Reservations about the lamb burger, served here in homemade flatbread buns. More courageous dishes include boiled beef stomach skewers slathered with spicy fermented tofu sauce or stewed lamb spine and ribs. Why not give them a try? Everything is so cheap, it's your chance to expand.