Biang!, named the for the sound of fresh noodles being stretched and slammed down, is a cheap and stylish bistro from the father-son team, David Shi and Jason Wang, behind Xi'an Famous Foods. The modern, whitewashed space has panda prints on the wall but eschews other typical Chinese design elements—no bold reds, for instance. The food is a tribute to the ancient city of Xi'an in north-central China. Appreciation for fiery chilies and cumin is pretty much a prerequisite here, though the kitchen will dial down the heat upon request. Recommended family-style dishes include spicy and sour lamb dumplings and sautéed young chicken, bones and all, with bell peppers, potatoes and black mushrooms tangled among long, udon-like noodles. There are some vegetarian options (fiddlehead fern salad, garlicky baby bok choy) as well as belt notches for the adventurous omnivore. Skewered spicy beef stomach coated with sesame paste, anyone?
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