Bigoli is a restaurant for adults, its bar and quiet tables inhabited by people who look like they've arrived from offices at upscale law and marketing firms. These well-traveled sorts check their coats automatically and comfortably greet the Italian host with "buona sera." The executive chef, Alessandro Stratta, is American but of Italian descent and most famous for his two namesake restaurants (Alex and Stratta) at Wynn Las Vegas. Robust dishes include pappardelle with braised oxtail, black currants and parsnips; rosemary chicken breast with lemon, artichokes, mushrooms and potatoes; braised veal; and short ribs. The restaurant is centrally situated in the West Village, but manages to feel hidden, resting at the base of a pretty brownstone.