Bill Baker's may seem like it's in no man's land, straddling the entrance to the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway and facing a graffiti-filled vacant lot, but it draws a young, cool crowd. This is a guys' kind of watering hole (though women are made to feel welcome), with a huge selection of beer for geeks who care to know the alcohol content of each one. Partners and co-chefs Nels Benton and Adam Randisi (the restaurant is an ode to his grandfather, Bill Baker) feature a seasonal American menu that goes great with drinks. A crock of mac and cheese is gooey with local cheeses; wild-caught shrimp and cheddar grits are nestled in bacon; and a Philly pork hero is topped with broccoli rabe and, for a couple bucks extra,served with pork jus fries. The flat-screens behind the bar are usually tuned to sports, and the casual, comfortable space pulses with old-school rock.