When a bold chef like Ignacio Mattos is in the kitchen, there's no reason to question a dish as offbeat as spicy anchovies, butter and parsley crostini. He knows how to bring hits of heat, salt, richness and fragrant herbs together in one crunchy bite. Especially for fans of Estela, its sister restaurant, Café Altro Paradiso's Italian-leaning menu will strike a chord. There are straightforward plates of prosciutto and olives, as well as quirks like braised cardoons (in the artichoke family) served with ribeye. The chic, gently lit bistro in western SoHo fills up early, so reservations are necessary. For now, the restaurant is closed on Sundays but should begin service in a few months.