New Yorkers love a comeback story, as the crowds greeting Pino Luongo’s new restaurant demonstrate. Luongo, a Tuscan chef and cookbook author, was a fixture on NYC’s dining scene from the late ’80s until the late aughts, running several popular Italian restaurants. The original Coco Pazzo was on the Upper East Side; this Soho reincarnation is sophisticated yet informal. Dinner features hearty ribollita, lasagna Bolognese and deconstructed linguine with clams. At lunch, the kitchen turns out a pleasing menu of salads, sandwiches and pasta.