For decades this angular, picturesque corner of Greenwich Village housed the lace-curtained, fusty but cherished Café de Bruxelles. Those cobwebs have been scrupulously brushed away by Cole's, an urbane American restaurant overseen by a crackerjack team led by David Rabin (Jimmy at the James Hotel, The Lambs Club). Sit at the bar for a convivial cocktail and quick meal, but for longer stays, the sound-cushioned dining room allows for conversation. Depending on the season, look for kabocha squash ravioli with leeks, poppyseeds and ricotta salata; Atlantic salmon with pancetta and swiss chard; and a fat, custom-blended burger with cheddar and fries. Back to the cocktails: a Grumpy Old Man, made with bourbon, honey, peppercorns, mint and ginger ale, could soften a curmudgeon.