A block or so from the Morgan Avenue L train stop in Bushwick is a destination tiki bar and old-school Mexican restaurant. El Cortez is an unaffected though stylish dive, with low lighting, Naugahyde upholstery and a mural of helicopters swooping toward a Mayan pyramid. Stephen Tanner, a cofounder of the original Pies 'n' Thighs and the Commodore, is the no-nonsense driving force behind it, pushing retro taco salads, chimichangas, nachos and burritos, striving for deliciousness rather than authenticity. Enchiladas and tacos du jour are the best kind of drunk food. Speaking of which, the cocktails are strong and good, so if you want to find your way home, don't do this place on an empty stomach. More drinking and dancing takes place in the upstairs bar.