Emily is a pretty name for a pizzeria, but it should actually be called Emily & Matt. The latter (Emily's husband) makes his own mozzarella and ricotta and feeds hand-mixed and -stretched pizza dough into a fiery, wood-burning oven. The result is thin, crisp, elastic and delicious. Toppings vary from classic (tomato sauce, mozzarella, basil) to why-doesn't-everybody-do-this? (duck fat–roasted clams). There's terrific pasta too, plus creatively prepared vegetables like smoky carrots with lentils and ricotta. Wine on tap can be ordered by the quartino, served in a measured beaker. The faintly lit space has an easygoing, neighborhood vibe and is painless to get to from other neighborhoods, since the Clinton-Washington stop on the C train is practically right outside.