Starting with the name, Freek’s Mill is an idiosyncratic destination. (The corner spot takes its name from an actual mill that used to exist at the location—in the 18th century.) The postindustrial neighborhood is on its way back, attracting development, artists and young families. Pioneering types fill the tables at this appealing tavern. Partners J. T. Stewart and Maxime Giordani (formerly of Mario Batali’s Casa Mono and Bar Jamón) and chef Chad Shaner (ex-Union Square Café) have created a warm environment for their small-plate concept with big-league ambitions. The menu changes often, but there might be dandelion greens with fried chicken livers and a farm-fresh egg; multihued roasted carrots with yogurt sauce and peanut dukkah (a nutty mixture of seeds and spices); and soft pork jowl with pickled vegetables. Menu prices include gratuity.