Bobby Flay took New York City by storm in 1991 with his Southwestern sensation Mesa Grill, which lasted until 2013. Bolo, Bar Americain and TV fame further polished his star quality. With the opening of Gato in early 2014, Flay proved he still had the right stuff in the kitchen, especially when it comes to gutsy Mediterranean flavors. Look for small miracles like 11-layer potatoes with caramelized shallots and fried sage, eggplant with manchego cheese and oregano, and scrambled eggs with almond romesco. Of the larger plates the juicy porterhouse pork chop and meatless paella with kale and wild mushrooms are the most memorable. The rustic, brick-ceilinged space has an industrial grandeur, resembling a Spanish parador held together by ornate metalwork. Walk-ins are accommodated at the wraparound bar and bar tables up front, but otherwise it's smart to make a reservation.