Gwynnett St. would fit seamlessly into a posh part of Manhattan but instead it stands out in an otherwise humble quarter of Williamsburg. Candlelight and quiet laughter dance off exposed brick walls. Herb-filled flower boxes line the windows. Make a reservation and dress up a little: executive chef Justin Hilbert is pulling out all the stops for you. No doubt his creativity is innate, though also helped along by stints at wd~50 and the Michelin-starred Mugaritz in Spain. His New American menu changes with the seasons but one hopes there will always be freshly baked whiskey bread with cultured butter. Do not miss it. Also look for beautifully composed, meltingly tender duck with apricot, escarole and yellowfoot chanterelles and an astonishing dessert of coconut mousse with barley and malt. Esquire named it the best new restaurant of 2012.