Study Google maps before setting out for Houdini Kitchen Laboratory since this is a largely unexplored, industrial area of Ridgewood and the restaurant looks like a brick warehouse with no helpful signage. Once a brewery, the high-ceilinged space is experimental when it comes to pizza, with sometimes unusual toppings (rum-aged gorgonzola, Vidalia onions and raisins)—though there's also kid-friendly and wonderful Margherita with tomato sauce and mozzarella. Dough is stretched out before your eyes and then deposited in a wood-burning oven. The result is thin yet sturdy, chewy and robust with flavor. Salads and homemade burrata are good to share while you're waiting. Wine by the carafe, quartino and bottle is inexpensive. Owner Massimiliano Bartoli named the place for Harry Houdini, buried nearby, and has managed to conjure a setting that feels both improvised and stylish.