Houseman is an ideal neighborhood restaurant, in this case just north of TriBeCa and west of SoHo. The vibe is polished yet casual, with butcher-block tables, a friendly bar, music kept down to a volume that allows conversation and skillfully executed New American food. The chef-owner is Ned Baldwin, who spent several years at Prune with Gabrielle Hamilton, another chef who knows a thing or two. The menu is seasonal, but always features a splendid thick burger and flawlessly roasted chicken. Seafood might include swordfish with Mediterranean-style stewed vegetables, and in summer, a festive "beach dinner" for two: lobster, littleneck clams, shrimp, corn, tomatoes and potato salad.