Much in the style of Daniel Boulud's DBGB nearby, L'Apicio is a modern, lively, vast restaurant at the base of a glass-facade condo complex in a neighborhood that, until recently, was rough around the edges. If you don't object to gentrification, L'Apicio is actually a fine destination, owned by Gabe Thompson and Joe Campanale of dell'anima, L'Artusi and Anfora fame. Solo diners, parents-in-town, first dates, business dinners, girls nights—it's a fitting choice for all. Charred octopus is not too charred, wonderfully tender and lemony and spiked with pepperoni. Pastas are classified as primi but big enough for a main course. The Italian theme carries through in main courses, such as branzino with artichokes, and a contorni of escarole with garlic, chilies and olives. For dolci, the vanilla semifreddo and salted caramel gelato with praline-hazelnut crunch are molto bene.