This soaring, beautifully lit brasserie inside Williamsburg’s Wythe Hotel has crisp, thin, golden frites worth taking the L train for. They accompany excellent steak au poivre and roasted chicken with herb jus, two of the standouts on the French menu. It was developed by Jake Leiber and Aidan O’Neal, the chefs behind Greenpoint’s popular Chez Ma Tante. The third member of the team is noted restaurateur Jon Neidich (Acme, The Happiest Hour). The dozen desserts are also sublime, including profiteroles, classic crème brûlée and chocolate pot de crème.