The glass and brick exterior of Llama Inn, nestled on a quiet corner under the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway, evokes Edward Hopper's lonely Nighthawks. Inside, it's a different story. A square wooden bar is the centerpiece, surrounded by banquettes, booths, an open kitchen with a chef's counter, tall windows, leafy plants and South American–themed artwork. The scent of grilling meats wafts through the room. Dark, classy and animated, this Peruvian restaurant is the brainchild of Erik Ramirez, whose parents came to the US from Lima. The chef has worked at noted Manhattan restaurant Eleven Madison Park and here pushes the boundaries of his heritage cuisine, adding influences from Japan and China. Top street-food snacks include fiery skewers of chicken thigh, fermented soybeans and potato chips, and head-on shrimp with adobo, garlic and lime; a highlight among main courses is arctic char with Andean potatoes, cacao, peanuts and mustard greens.