The Texas-style barbecued meats at Mothership are rubbed with salt and pepper, and the smoker does the rest. At co-owner Josh Bowen’s other joint in Long Island City, John Brown Smokehouse, it’s more of a sweet-and-saucy Kansas City style. Here, spicy mustard is the perfect condiment for the soft sliced ham, and thick plum sauce for the tender, fat-edged brisket. Order at the counter and find a table indoors, or outside in the 200-capacity garden. There’s a full bar as well as beer by the pitcher, making it fun for groups.