Mountain Bird is as dainty and soothing as a tea parlor, with just 19 seats, lace curtains, monogrammed china and opera and classical music wafting from the sound system. It's also a daring French restaurant run by a Japanese couple, Keiko and Kenichi Tajima, located on a Harlem block more notable for Jamaican takeout joints, Big Nose Deli and Popeyes Chicken & Biscuits. Just when you're settling comfortably into a cozy table, the menu can be unsettling: cockscomb cutlets, chicken gizzard and heart, ostrich tartare. They're beautifully prepared, but never fear if offal is not your thing. There is also good shrimpy mac and cheese, cassoulet and chicken schnitzel. Book a reservation for dinner or take a chance at Sunday brunch, when it's walk-ins only and the meal starts with vanilla butter-spread muffins and moist banana loaves so tiny they could be from an Easy-Bake oven.