Nakamura faces the rumbling Williamsburg Bridge on the Lower East Side. Inside it’s cozy (under 20 seats) and minimalist, lit by bare bulbs. But it’s by no means austere, with a young crowd nodding in appreciation to the Ramones’ “Blitzkrieg Bop” and Leonard Cohen on the sound system. The main reason to seek it out is Shigetoshi Nakamura, a revered ramen chef from Tokyo. His steaming bowls of noodles are balanced in flavor and include meaty, spicy, vegetarian and citrusy variations. The menu is concise, also offering pot stickers, spicy cucumber salad with chili granola and minced beef with rice. Sake comes in cans, fun to pour into Pyrex beakers used as glasses.