Though the decor here is heavily inspired by WWII-era Navy vessels, this SoHo eatery feels in every other way fully suited to its modern setting. The menu, which emphasizes freshness in its seafood and vegetables, is filled with unfussy dishes that manage to have flavors both rich and clean. Chef Camille Becerra makes her own crackers and blinis, and fish and caviar are cured on premises. The crispy gnocchi is often cited as a must-try, organic produce from Lancaster Farm Co-op is notably flavorful, and if you visit during the uncrowded lunch hours, you'll have the space to fully enjoy both. It's worth noting that the team who launched Navy—Akiva Elstein and Matt Abramcyk—is the same pair behind TriBeCa's popular Smith & Mills.
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