No wonder the pasta is so good—this is a Mark Ladner operation. The chef mastered the art at Mario Batali’s Lupa and Del Posto. What is a wonder? His garlic dots: soft, warm, buttery little pillows of dough flecked with cheese. His fried lasagna bar is ridiculous, too—a transcendent Italian street food. The opposite of fine dining, Pasta Flyer is a quick-serve café with an open kitchen, delivering gourmet nourishment at bargain prices.