Pig Bleecker is an offshoot of Pig Beach, a barbecue hangout in Gowanus, but this West Village bistro isn’t your standard barbecue joint. Sure, the pork chops are smoked and grilled, and the chicken lollipops are lacquered in barbecue sauce, but it’s more upscale than down home. The brisket is stuffed in ravioli and bathed in black truffle butter, for instance—a clue to the Italian cooking chops of chef Matt Abdoo, a vet of Del Posto. His food is rapturously satisfying. The crowd swills more cocktails than beer, and many can’t resist pigging out on a vanilla milkshake with chocolate and crushed peanuts.